Post by kwantmfuzzix on Feb 19, 2011 14:27:27 GMT -5
I'm sure this belongs somewhere else on this forum, and no doubt some dear sweet administrator will move it there eventually, but even if I spotted that black hole in the universe location, I figure not too many folks would read it hiding away back there, so I'll start here and see where it finally ends up.
Project: Milk Machine Vacuum Pump Housing Box
Date: February 18. 2011
Statement of Problem: Wifey recently acquired a complete belly milker from an angel across the country (isn't everywhere "across the country" from the middle of nowhere, South Dakota?). When we received it and assembled the various parts for testing, it became immediately obvious that the vacuum pump (motor and tank) needed protection from the environment of our barn (dirt floor and flying cow poop - who wants a poopy pump?).
My Solution: Build a box to house the vacuum pump. Because the motor will need to be heated for proper function in the negative temperatures of South Dakota winters, add a light fixture inside the box, and because the power cord on the motor is unswitched (existing function by plugging/unplugging), install a switched receptacle for the motor to be turned on/off from outside the box.
Figure 1: Vacuum Pump Assembled.
The first step, obviously, is to assemble the vacuum pump, then make measurements (max length, width, height). Then add the dimensions of other things that will go in the box (switch box, light fixture with bulb, plug box) and draw up a preliminary design for the box all this will go in and a wiring diagram for how it will all be connected.
Cost was a big issue for this project. All materials, with exception of one switch and switch plate, were already on hand. The framing wood was created by ripping some old pressure-treated 2x4s into 1.5”x1.5” and the ½” plywood was recycled from an old dog house (Dawgs' Clubhouse - No Katz Allowed) that has been out in the weather for more than five years (105 ºF sun-baked summers, thunderstorm rain and hail, -20 ºF winters, sleet, freezing rain, blizzard snows), so pardon me if this doesn’t look showroom new.
Figure 2: Start Framing on Plywood Base and 4” Legs.
OK, taking all the dimensions previously decided upon into account, I made a plywood base and built the box frame on it. The legs come from a scrap of 2x6, cut into four 4” pieces.
Figure 3 shows the completed frame. Note that there is no crosspiece at the top of the front because this will be where a hinged lid will be. In the lower left of that picture is the switch box (one to turn on the 40W light, which is to be the heat source when used in low temperatures, and one switch to turn on the pump motor). In the right corner at the back is a single plug box, turned on via the previously mentioned switch, into which the motor will be plugged.
Figure 3: Frame Completed and Electrical Boxes Screwed in Place.
Figure 4: Outside Walls and Wiring Added.
Figure 4 shows three of the walls added and the light (with metal drip guard) and plug wired to the switch box. The cutout piece on the right side wall is for an air filter (a small wooden frame with breathable cloth stapled to it to filter dirty barn air). This must be removable for cleaning.
Figure 5: Front, Lid, and Switches Added.
After the above photo, I finished painting the box white (exterior paint in case cow pee or poop gets on it – highly likely, given how our cows love to redecorate) and did the accents in green (that's what is available in the paint-can freezer).
Figure 6: Completed Box Installed in Barn.
Figure 7: Close-up of Title.
Figure 8: Lid Open, Pump Installed in Box.
The hot wire to run all this (barely visible at top right of box in Fig.6) will be hardwired into the barn’s electrical system. There is a plug-in right above this box, but that plug is wired into the overhead lighting, so it has power only when the lights are on (meant to plug in a fan that blows on the milkmaid to keep flies off during the summer). This box, because of the requirement for the heating light to be on all night in winter, must have power regardless of what else is on or off in the barn.
Because all the pieces, except light switch and plate, were already laying around the shop, my cash outlay for this project was about $2.00 (not including gas to get to the nearest lumberyard - 27 miles each way) and total time spent designing and building this was approximately 10-12 hours (over about five days – you know us “farm boyz” have a zillion other chores to do, all of which wifey wanted done yesterday). Yes, I am getting slow in my old age, but I’m pretty inexpensive these days too.
Hogs & Quiches Y'all,
Rich
Project: Milk Machine Vacuum Pump Housing Box
Date: February 18. 2011
Statement of Problem: Wifey recently acquired a complete belly milker from an angel across the country (isn't everywhere "across the country" from the middle of nowhere, South Dakota?). When we received it and assembled the various parts for testing, it became immediately obvious that the vacuum pump (motor and tank) needed protection from the environment of our barn (dirt floor and flying cow poop - who wants a poopy pump?).
My Solution: Build a box to house the vacuum pump. Because the motor will need to be heated for proper function in the negative temperatures of South Dakota winters, add a light fixture inside the box, and because the power cord on the motor is unswitched (existing function by plugging/unplugging), install a switched receptacle for the motor to be turned on/off from outside the box.
Figure 1: Vacuum Pump Assembled.
The first step, obviously, is to assemble the vacuum pump, then make measurements (max length, width, height). Then add the dimensions of other things that will go in the box (switch box, light fixture with bulb, plug box) and draw up a preliminary design for the box all this will go in and a wiring diagram for how it will all be connected.
Cost was a big issue for this project. All materials, with exception of one switch and switch plate, were already on hand. The framing wood was created by ripping some old pressure-treated 2x4s into 1.5”x1.5” and the ½” plywood was recycled from an old dog house (Dawgs' Clubhouse - No Katz Allowed) that has been out in the weather for more than five years (105 ºF sun-baked summers, thunderstorm rain and hail, -20 ºF winters, sleet, freezing rain, blizzard snows), so pardon me if this doesn’t look showroom new.
Figure 2: Start Framing on Plywood Base and 4” Legs.
OK, taking all the dimensions previously decided upon into account, I made a plywood base and built the box frame on it. The legs come from a scrap of 2x6, cut into four 4” pieces.
Figure 3 shows the completed frame. Note that there is no crosspiece at the top of the front because this will be where a hinged lid will be. In the lower left of that picture is the switch box (one to turn on the 40W light, which is to be the heat source when used in low temperatures, and one switch to turn on the pump motor). In the right corner at the back is a single plug box, turned on via the previously mentioned switch, into which the motor will be plugged.
Figure 3: Frame Completed and Electrical Boxes Screwed in Place.
Figure 4: Outside Walls and Wiring Added.
Figure 4 shows three of the walls added and the light (with metal drip guard) and plug wired to the switch box. The cutout piece on the right side wall is for an air filter (a small wooden frame with breathable cloth stapled to it to filter dirty barn air). This must be removable for cleaning.
Figure 5: Front, Lid, and Switches Added.
After the above photo, I finished painting the box white (exterior paint in case cow pee or poop gets on it – highly likely, given how our cows love to redecorate) and did the accents in green (that's what is available in the paint-can freezer).
Figure 6: Completed Box Installed in Barn.
Figure 7: Close-up of Title.
Figure 8: Lid Open, Pump Installed in Box.
The hot wire to run all this (barely visible at top right of box in Fig.6) will be hardwired into the barn’s electrical system. There is a plug-in right above this box, but that plug is wired into the overhead lighting, so it has power only when the lights are on (meant to plug in a fan that blows on the milkmaid to keep flies off during the summer). This box, because of the requirement for the heating light to be on all night in winter, must have power regardless of what else is on or off in the barn.
Because all the pieces, except light switch and plate, were already laying around the shop, my cash outlay for this project was about $2.00 (not including gas to get to the nearest lumberyard - 27 miles each way) and total time spent designing and building this was approximately 10-12 hours (over about five days – you know us “farm boyz” have a zillion other chores to do, all of which wifey wanted done yesterday). Yes, I am getting slow in my old age, but I’m pretty inexpensive these days too.
Hogs & Quiches Y'all,
Rich