Post by wyomama on Feb 17, 2009 15:17:04 GMT -5
The tools: a hoof knife, a rasp, and a pair of nippers. (they have to be sharp to work well) also, a rope with a quick release mechanism
Delilah tied so she can't move forward much:
Rope thrown overhead: I throw my rope over an overhead support, it has to be strong enough to hold the weight of the animal you are going to trim.
Working on a hind foot: to work on a hind foot, i put the rope around the leg above the hock joint
Working on a front foot: to work on a front foot, i put the rope around the leg just above the fetlock joint.
pinch the dew claws together and the animal will pick up the foot. then you snug up the rope and tie it (to the fence wall or the stanchion) with a slip knot. the animal will sometimes stuggle, which is why you want a slip knot AND a quick release rope: if she falls, you want to be able to release the rope safely and quickly.
This technique works (with modifications) on adult cattle, too.
the modifications are:
the animal has to be in a stanchion or something to keep her from moving sideways.
instead of a slip knot around the leg, i use a thick leather dog collar buckled tight enough that it won't slip off. then i run the rope through the collar. the cow will put a lot of weight on the rope as she tries to balance, and it will be less likely to hurt her leg if the rope isn't getting tighter like a tourniquet.
make sure the overhead support is STRONG!
Some background info about hoof care :
I try to work with my calves from an early age to get them used to having their feet handled. If your critters are used to it, and you are quick with a rasp, you can take care of their feet without having to tie them up. Even my 1800 pound oxen will let me pick up their feet and will give me a few seconds of time to use the rasp with one hand.
the rope, the nippers and hoof knife are needed if the hoof is already too long. no matter how docile, a cow or ox simply can't stand very well on 3 legs, and they need some support.
when i was working as a dairy vet in private practice, i spent a lot of time trimming cows' feet. even cattle with good conformation can get overgrown toes if they are on soft footing, or if they don't get much exercise. the hoof wall at the toe is tougher than at the heel, so it doesn't wear down as fast. So over time, the toes tend to grow out.
how to tell if the hoof needs significant trimming? Basically:
1) check the length of the hoof. as a general rule, 3 inches measured from the hair down the front of the hoof to the tip of the hoof/ toe is the right length for a big cow like a Holstein. less for a Jersey, more for a big Holstein or Brown Swiss ox, etc.
2) the angle of the wall of the toe should be about 45 - 50 degrees as measured against the sole/ horizontal. (if that makes sense).
The sole can sometimes get too thick, too, but that is maybe another chapter....?
if every farmer knew how and when to use a rasp and pair of nippers, it would be a good start.
Delilah tied so she can't move forward much:
Rope thrown overhead: I throw my rope over an overhead support, it has to be strong enough to hold the weight of the animal you are going to trim.
Working on a hind foot: to work on a hind foot, i put the rope around the leg above the hock joint
Working on a front foot: to work on a front foot, i put the rope around the leg just above the fetlock joint.
pinch the dew claws together and the animal will pick up the foot. then you snug up the rope and tie it (to the fence wall or the stanchion) with a slip knot. the animal will sometimes stuggle, which is why you want a slip knot AND a quick release rope: if she falls, you want to be able to release the rope safely and quickly.
This technique works (with modifications) on adult cattle, too.
the modifications are:
the animal has to be in a stanchion or something to keep her from moving sideways.
instead of a slip knot around the leg, i use a thick leather dog collar buckled tight enough that it won't slip off. then i run the rope through the collar. the cow will put a lot of weight on the rope as she tries to balance, and it will be less likely to hurt her leg if the rope isn't getting tighter like a tourniquet.
make sure the overhead support is STRONG!
Some background info about hoof care :
I try to work with my calves from an early age to get them used to having their feet handled. If your critters are used to it, and you are quick with a rasp, you can take care of their feet without having to tie them up. Even my 1800 pound oxen will let me pick up their feet and will give me a few seconds of time to use the rasp with one hand.
the rope, the nippers and hoof knife are needed if the hoof is already too long. no matter how docile, a cow or ox simply can't stand very well on 3 legs, and they need some support.
when i was working as a dairy vet in private practice, i spent a lot of time trimming cows' feet. even cattle with good conformation can get overgrown toes if they are on soft footing, or if they don't get much exercise. the hoof wall at the toe is tougher than at the heel, so it doesn't wear down as fast. So over time, the toes tend to grow out.
how to tell if the hoof needs significant trimming? Basically:
1) check the length of the hoof. as a general rule, 3 inches measured from the hair down the front of the hoof to the tip of the hoof/ toe is the right length for a big cow like a Holstein. less for a Jersey, more for a big Holstein or Brown Swiss ox, etc.
2) the angle of the wall of the toe should be about 45 - 50 degrees as measured against the sole/ horizontal. (if that makes sense).
The sole can sometimes get too thick, too, but that is maybe another chapter....?
if every farmer knew how and when to use a rasp and pair of nippers, it would be a good start.