We bought our freesian cow in June this year, she is 3 years old, we also bought our jersey cow at the same time 3 years old, she has since calved and he is still milking from his mum (born in june), we also have a 9 month old charolais. They are all together in the same field around 2.5 acres and have been so since they came. We feed them hay but should we worm them and if so what is the easiest way please, the jersey and calf are tame but the other two not yet.
DE Diatomaceous Earth is the easiest and least chemical way to worm. Check out this site for more info. I'm not posting this to get you to buy from here but because it has a GREAT description on how to use it. www.dirtworks.net/Diatomaceous-Earth.html
Post by joncowcare on Nov 19, 2008 15:24:33 GMT -5
Hi chickens, I assume you are talking about Lungworm treatment ?
If so, in the UK most of the commercial herds I've worked with use 'Dictol'. It can be used on any animal over 2 months of age and is usually done on a yearly basis for any stock out at grass. [although usually done 2 weeks before turnout] It comes in a small bottle which contains approx 1000 lungworm larvae who have been treated to stop them developing into mature lungworms. They are alive and will find their way to the lungs where they provoke a response and so stimulate immunity. Be assured, they will not develop further or cause any other infection and I must have dosed 1000's of cows in my time with no ill-effects but with peace of mind that I was using a reliable form of lungworm prevention. It is usual to give two doses [orally] with usually a month between them. To administer you will need to pour the contents of the bottle down your cows mouth, the bottle is small, about 3ins long, you will therefore need to be able to hold your animals in some way. Your tame girls should be no problem but the others, well . . .
Some other treatments I've used are with 'Ivomec,' a chemical it is poured along the cows back and although effective will not stimulate any natural response as Dictol does. It will however control 'Warble fly' [used to be a terrible pest over here] as well as any gastro-intestinal nematodes [worms to you and me], mange and lice and is therefore worth considering. As it is poured on the cows back there is not the same requirement for holding them, I used to walk amongst the girls giving a stroke under the chin and pouring whilst I did so.
Another treatment is via a 'Bolus', this is a small tube containing a chemical [any ingredient is a 'chemical' if you think about it ?!], usually something like 'Oxfendazole' in a slow-release form which is administered orally. The idea of this is that the bolus is retained in the reticulum for nearly 4 months or at least the length of the summer grazing period.
I don't have any other treatments that I can personally recommend though I'm sure others will be able to supply them. Dosing of a commercial herd is done with profit in mind don't forget and any 'chemicals' used are tried and tested with minimal contra-indications. These treatments are used because they are effective, that is they work, and because to see a cow that is suffering with worms is not a nice sight. [besides not being financially viable].
So, you pays your money and takes your choice ! I wish you well and hope this has been of some help ?! Kind regards, Jon
I use the Ivomec pour on for deworming in the spring or summer. Worms are gone in the NE at this time or at least that is what I am told. This Ivomec helps with heel flies also. So, when I see the cows with lots of flies on their legs and stopping I do the pour on. I have seen once where two of my cows actually had worms which resulted in them running with their tails straight up in the air. The pour on was very effective and quick. I also rotate pastures during the summer so that they actually skip a paddock for 30 days which is suppose to be the approximate worm development/hatching.
Dexter cows: Paula and Ida Dexter heifers: Fancy Dexter bull: Kilkenny and Jones Dexter steers: Quigley, Barley, Bushmill, and Poddle Dexter/Dutch belted: Cupcake 17 chickens of unknown type.
Hi Thank you all for your help, thanks Jon for explaining the different choices. However, having read the replies and now that it is winter and cold am I understanding right that the worms will not really exist? My cows have been in this field for 6 months, no signs of worms we just thought they looked a bit thin but how do you know for sure if they are too thin? We feed them hay morning and night, good hay, we have tried potatoes but they don't touch them - perhaps there is something we are doing wrong? Really appreciate your comments and advice.
Hi Nikki, My advice initially would be to follow what 'ozarkfarmgrammie' has said and take some samples to either your local vets or other testing service. By taking the samples yourself you will save a fortune, failing that do you know any college students who are studying any biological subjects with recourse to a microscope ? Need I say more . . .
The clinical signs of worms are many and varied so don't think because you can see none that all is well. It is usual to find that by the time you hear that terrible cough with the arched back and scraggy coat the damage has been done. So, remember that lungworm will destroy the lungs with a consequent loss of body condition all of which can go on unseen by you. They can lie dormant during winter, again, something you need to think about. Please don't take any chances.
You mention that your girls are thin and you are feeding hay. Don't forget that grass at this time of year has a negligible protein content and has stopped growing. You may need to feed a top-up concentrate or similar. Ideally you need to learn how to Body Score your girls, there are bound to be some links on this site that will show you how.
Above all please don't worry Nikki, you are doing fine and we have all been where you are trust me ! Please write back if there is anything you are unsure about ok ?! Good luck ! Jon
We have a milk cow and even though we are not certified organic, we try to adhere as close as possible to those regulations. Our breeder noted that our cow has worms and after speaking with other farmers, we have decided to try the diatomaceous earth. Since we only feed her hay, I'm not sure how much to give or how to give it to her. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
You can put it out in a bucket and see if the cows will just lick it...sometimes they do. A little DE can improve feed conversion, but too much can hamper it. Most people WHO DO FECALS and still swear by DE say that it doesn't get rid of worms but seems to prevent their return. You need to know what you are dealing with. I do fecals for my goats and use an herbal wormer. I mix it with peanut butter for the goats and diamond v yeast for the steers. -Jenn
losingcreekfarm.blogspot.com/ Tinkerbelle and Anna II
Belle-AKA Miss Swiss-Braunvieh
Cocoa-Brown Swiss/Jersey-The most wonderful cow I've had the pleasure to milk!
Cocoa's Twin heifers
Assorted hens and roosters
Post by Melissa (Nonesuch Farm) on Dec 7, 2008 8:41:26 GMT -5
We use Eprinex Pour-On for all new cattle and keep them in isolation until it has passed through them and they should no longer be shedding larva. Then let them out on pasture. Since there had not been cows here for more than 25 years before us we are trying to keep clean fields. There is no withdrawal time for milk. Once we have dosed twice with that we feed our cows DE which seems to prevent intestinal worms but does nothing to get rid of a bad infestation. We also keep several cows on in a small confinement pasture much of the time and haven't seen anyone get worms again. Also they don't have to be tame for this. When we had a wild little Hereford heifer we just striped it down her back while she was coming in to eat.
Melissa & Don- Farmers. Judge, Jury & Baliff the LGDs, Zoe the Newfie, Mini-Weenie lap warmers, Barn Cats, Fish Ponds, Faverolles, Ameraucanas & Jubilee Orpington Chickens. Cotton Patch Geese. Muscovy, Welsh Harlequin & Khaki Campbell ducks. American Guinea Hogs. Honeybees. Organic Garden & Orchard. Farming the old fashioned way on 30 acres of Piney Woods. Milking Dexter & Jersey cows & Kinder goats. www.nonesuchfarm.net / www.facebook.com/nonesuchfarm
We have used it on the dairy goats for about a year and have not had any problems with worms. Plus we feel much better using it as I know exactly what is in it.
It has directions only for goats and horses though. I would imagine that you could use a little more for a Jersey than what a horse would take, but as we are just now starting to learn about dairy cows I was not sure. It says for goats to use 1Tbs. AM and PM for seven days (I guess once every month?). We have used 1 TBS once a week without any problems for a year but I think we will start doing 1 TBS AM and PM once a week.
I would not use the wormwood every week during gestation or if expecting mothers are going to be drinking the milk. Some say DE does not work internally, but only kills worms by drying them out( this can only be done by applying it directly on the worm dry). I have not experimented with this recipe yet without the DE, but I am favoring that opinion. The next batch I make of it I will do without it
The mix is too powdery for the goats sometimes so I would recommend adding molasses or peanut butter to make into dosage ball or a type of sweet feed.
Jenny at Sagehill: Angora goats might work except they aren't bred to milk much or longer than their kids require. They're rather smaller animals and can be finicky.
Jul 13, 2014 12:08:13 GMT -5
beelady: i had an angora doe that was a precocious milker. huge udder too... right now im crossing angora buck on nubian does saving the doelings that show mohair/cashmere and breeding those onto angoras..
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Chatty Kathy: I've been out of the KFC, milking mass quantities. I cannot seem to find Joann's current diary entries and saw a post asking how she is doing. She has been such an inspiration and help to me. I'd like to know how she is.
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